*Cutting Lace*
Always use straight shears when cutting lace. pinking shears will interrupt the fluidity of the motif design, which of course, can ruin the overall visual appeal of the lacework. Be sure to match your motifs, just as you match any plaid or striped fabric. Whenever possible, cut your lace without going through a motif (this is virtually impossible if your overall design is rich with numerous clusters of motifs).

*Sewing Lace*
Keep the design flowing. If you must cut through the center of a particular pattern, match the other half exactly, using a zigzag stitch and going around the motif…not straight through it.

To sew border trim lace, follow the same procedure of matching motifs as you cut. Use a zigzag stitch when sewing by machine. By hand, work around the motif, following its outline as you go along.

The whipstitch is a popular form of hand stitching, and enhances the finished quality of sewn lace more than the running stitch.

*Muted Technique*
Lets say you are constructing a dinner jacket, which calls for a satin fabric under lace. However, you find the lace is “smothered” by the shine of the satin. An easy trick is the muted technique. Simply cut sheer netting to match the pattern measurements of you satin and lace. Before affixing the lace, sandwitch the netting between the two textures. The netting will tone down, or mute, the shine of the satin. Your may use sheer netting to match the fabric, or, be creative and use an entirely different color, thus making your own cross-dye lace.

*When NOT to Use Lace*
Never use lace over a garment which is already rich with pattern. Lace itself provides pattern enough, and it will be nothing more than a gaudy appendage of a garment which is already heavy with design from the primary fabric.

Never “over-do” lace, even if the underlying fabric is conservative enough to warrant usage of lace. Too much lace can take away from the lovely fabric beneath it.

Do not use lightweight lace on an obviously “winter” style. Correspondingly, a heavier lace on a cool summer sundress is unwise. A winter wedding gown, for instance, would call for an all-over patterned lace with flounced edging, rich in design such as winter floral motifs. This same gown would look out of season if constructed with neckline and cuffs edged in summertime cotton eyelet lace. By the same token, a spring prom gown would be much more appealing if edged with a light, small print lace, rather than yards and yards of heavy cross-dye lace which is more becoming to an adult than a teenager. This is not to imply a strict code of any sort when incorporating lace into a fashion. However, with understanding of lace and how it works with various fabrics and styles, the home sewer is sure to arrive at logical and satisfying conclusions regarding the “whats and whens” of lace application.

*Conclusion*
Lace is lots of fun and beautiful to work with. It holds its shape for many years if properly cared for. Lace rarely needs more than a quick once-over with a warm iron and pressing cloth. Today’s feminine fashions call for lace more than ever before. If you’ve never worked with lace before and feel a bit insecure, why not purchase some lace and fabric remnants just to play around with. Choose various weights and textures, borders and patterned motifs, and experiment…let your creative juices flow. As time progresses, you’ll be too busy creating your own lovely lace fashions to daydream at the local retail clothing stores.

A Step By Step Guide To Sewing Basics….Click Here!

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